Veg-tan Leather. What and Why?
Like any new hobby, it can be intimidating to jump into something with very little knowledge. I remember back when I first saw leathercraft videos and wanting to dive in headfirst but was quickly paralyzed with intimidation when it came time to purchase some leather. There were tons of options, and I had no idea what was good, bad, right, or wrong. What does chrome-tan mean? What does veg-tan mean? What’s the best leather for a simple wallet? I seemed like every decision on what to buy led to a ton of questions. Thankfully, this is why it’s awesome living in the era of information.
So, let’s start from the beginning. What is tanning? Basically, it’s the process of treating animal skins and hides to produce leather. Generally, this takes place in a tannery, and generally there are two ways to do it. One method can tan a Hyde in about 24 hours using a chemical bath of chromium (and other chemicals). This method is called chrome-tan. The method produces a leather that is generally very malleable and soft (almost squishy in my experience). It is generally a more budget friendly option and a less environmentally friendly option as it uses harsh chemicals.
The other commonly used method for tanning uses vegetable tannins such as birch, oak, chestnut, willow, or other barks. This method takes roughly 30 days to tan a hide and produces a product that is durable, beautiful, and more able to develop a rich patina over time. Only about 10% of all leather in the world is veg-tan. It is said that this method of tanning dates all the way back to ancient Sumer over 5000 years ago. Although this leather might not be as budget friendly, it is much more environmentally friendly as it’s made with natural ingredients.
Here’s a great comparison chart I found over at carlfriedrik.com
What do I use? The annoying answer is…It depends. I can confidently say 90% of what I made is veg-tan leather for a few reasons. First off, it’s simply a better product and produces nicer pieces. In my experience it’s just a higher end, more beautiful looking and feeling leather. I use a handful of go-to veg-tan leathers. Weaver’s Solstice, Badalassi’s Pueblo and Minerva are my most used. That being said, there is a time and place for chrome-tan. When it comes to making prototypes, it’s always good to have a nice big hide around 3-4 ounces handy. I’ve also used some of that prototype leather for things I was actually so happy with I made them available to the public. Guitar straps come to mind.
So what’s the best leather for you? It will likely take some trial and error to find the answer. I take pride in using veg-tan primarily. Pride that it will result not inly in a better product on the shelf, but a better product 5 years from now when that wallet has been through the ringer and is showing the life it’s lived with a rich patina. I take pride knowing that nearly all of my projects didn’t contribute to any harsh chemical being leeched into the environment. This is not a soap box, just my humble opinion. I encourage you buy a piece of chrome-tan, and buy a piece of veg-tan and start making. Let me know which you prefer and why.
