Which Stitching Iron should you use?

Let’s talk stitching irons. The good, the bad, and the why. Before we dive into the pros and cons of each type, let’s identify what those types are. There are 3 popular types I’ll be discussing here. The European, or French style irons, the diamond irons, and the stitching punch.

Let’s start with arguably the most common, the diamond iron. These are popular largely because they are included in most beginner leathercraft kits. My first set came in a junky $30 kit, and they absolutely drove me nuts. When I was first using them, they were squirrely, never punched straight through as the backside always ended up looking like a squiggly mess. Worst of all once they were punched through, they were impossible to pull out. I will say when it comes to diamond irons, quality does matter. I later upgraded to a set of diamond chisels from weaver. These were to much easier to work with. They were sharp, much easier to pull out of the leather and also very shiny and cool looking. I really did fall into a groove with these chisels for about a year. I watched a ton of Corter leather videos where the maker would use these chisels and I loved the look of the work.

I started to tune into another maker on YouTube who had a very different look to his work that I was really drawn to. The maker was Little King Goods. His work was very refined and precise. I especially liked his stitching lines. They looked impossibly clean for being a hand-stitch (saddle stitch). I learned that the style of stitching iron he was using was called a European or French style stitching iron. While the diamond chisel is named for the diamond shaped hole it creates, the European style chisel leaves a clean, slanted slit in the leather. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a set of chisels from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. On day one I was sold. They were what I had been looking for. Clean, elegant, and easy to use. The punched through the leather with ease. I was able to pull the chisel out of the leather just as easy. This was a couple years ago, and I still use them every day.

There’s one other type of chisel I’ve seen that I have not had the pleasure of using yet. The stitching punch. Instead of punching a slit in the leather, this acts as a proper hole punch removing a small circular amount of leather leaving behind a series of small, clean holes. This type of chisel is common on products like a watch strap but can also be used for wallets and other leather goods. I watch a YouTube channel called Low Tide Leather who used this style of chisel, and the work is beautiful. It’s definitely a unique and specific look. It also allows for a thicker and more robust thread.

In the end the stitching iron is a tool, and each maker will have their preferred tool within arm’s reach. It will likely be a game of trial and error until you find the fit that’s perfect for you. Happy crafting!